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Today I received your parcel from India. Amazing so quickly! Thank you very much.
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-Jutta Buschenhagen -
(GERMANY) |
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Once upon a time, the city Hampi used to be the capital of one of the
mightiest Hindu empires of South India, the Vijayanagara Dynasty.
The importance of this temple town was no less that Mathura or
Kashi, other holy cities of India. However, what stand here now
are just majestic ruins reminding one of the times gone by. Reason
enough for the western traveller to ensure it features on his/her
Indian itinerary, to catch glimpses of a world where art and day
to day life went together.
To begin with, Hampi, the last capital of the kingdom of Vijayanagara
was built around 1336 A D. This town housed numerous palaces and
temples, built in the Dravidian style of architecture. And, ironically,
just like today, it was a much visited destination - albeit for
different reasons - being a major stop for spiritual travellers
between the 14th and 16th centuries.
Before its conquest, Hampi was a cynosure of all eyes. People were attracted
to it not only because of its riches, but also its exquisite architecture.
It was also a spot for trade.
But sadly like all things - good and bad - come to an end, so did
the prosperity of this grand kingdom. It was conquered by Muslim
invaders in 1565 and was subjected to systematic pillaging for
about six months, and later after divesting it of its riches,
the marauders abandoned the city.
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| World Heritage site |
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This ancient city is also one of UNESCO's World Heritage
sites. The Indian government too is involved in the restoration,
excavation and protection of the ruins of this once grand
city.
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Legend behind the city
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Hampi
and Anegondi are twin towns situated on the opposite banks of
the Tungabhadra river in the Bellary district of the Indian state
of Karnataka. Many legends surround these two ancient cities as
well as the surrounding areas. Hampi itself covers an area of
over 25 square kilometres.
According to one of the legends, Pampa, the daughter of Brahma (of the Hindu
trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh), went into deep meditation
and penance for she wanted Lord Shiva as her husband. Shiva granted
her this boon and married her, hence he became 'Pampapathi' (the
husband of Pampa). It is said that after this wedding, he settled
down in this region.
Hampi and Kishkinda, an area close to Anegondi, are even mentioned
in the great Hindu epic the Ramayana. According to which,
Kishkinda was the capital of the ape kings Vali and Sugreeva.
Lord Rama won the battle with the demon-king Ravana, who had kidnapped
his wife Sita, thanks to the help of Sugreeva and his minister
Hanuman. In fact, certain names of areas around these two cities
reflect their deep connection to the story of King Rama. Some
of these names are Rampada, Sita Sarovara, Vali Bhandara and Shabari
Ashram. Some of the hillocks located nearby bear names like Rishyamooka
and Malya - vanta, again suggesting their link to the Ramayana era.
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Temple of Virupaksha
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As one comes to the end of the main bazaar, one reaches the oldest
and most famous temple in Hampi, the Virupaksha Temple, very outstanding
with its towering gopuram (entrance tower). The rich sculptures
atop the gopuram depict the religious zeal of the people
who built the temple to their resident deity Lord Shiva.
The 15th century temple has a long tunnel like entrance to the
inner courtyard. Within the temple compound lies a large open
courtyard and several shrines. Huge pillared halls are the special
and distinctive features of this temple.
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Places of interest
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Narasimha
Close to the Virupaksha temple stands tall a sculpture of Narasimha
(half man, half lion). The speciality of this is the fact that it
is carved out of a single mound of rock.
Close to the massive Narasimha statue is a large rock carved Shiva lingam which is impressive in its own way
Vittala Temple Complex
The 16th century Vittala Temple Complex is situated close to the
Virupaksha temple. This temple is a declared World Heritage Monument.
Although this temple was never consecrated, as the city was conquered
before this could happen, the sculptural work on the walls of the
temple is exquisite. It is considered the epitome of the arts of
the Vijaynagara empire.
Musical Pillars
The main pavilion of the temple houses 56 'musical pillars'.
All these pillars are superbly carved and emit different
musical notes due to the reverberation caused when tapped.
However, this practice is currently discouraged as the government
believes that this will add to the wear and tear pressures
of the monument.
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| Musical Pillars |
Stone Chariot |
Stone Chariot
Towards the Vittala Temple's eastern side is located the famous and
extremely beautiful Stone Chariot, a chariot carved out of
stone and depicted being pulled by an elephant. The speciality
of this sculpture is that it is perfectly proportioned and
thanks to its superior engineering technology its wheels can
actually rotate!
Elephant Stables
The elephant stables is close to the Lotus Mahal with eleven stalls domed in different styles.
King's
Balance
As one explores the city another spot that is interesting is the
King's Balance. It is said that in the olden days, the rich Dravidian
kings of the Vijaynagara Dynasty actually used to be weighed on
a giant scale against grain or gold, which was later distributed
to the poor in the kingdom.
Queen's Bath
Amongst the ruins one point that still shows the magnificence
of the days gone by is the Queen's Bath. It is built in typical
Islamic architectural style, which is open to the sky and surrounded
by a moat. It boasts of arched corridors, projecting balconies
and lotus-shaped fountains. It is said that when the Queen of
the later day sultans used to bathe here, water mixed with perfume
would spew out of the fountains. Our modern day showers and Jacuzzis
are but poor cousins of this royal bath!
The Hava Mahal
The Hava Mahal or Wind Palace is actually the Lotus Mahal, a two-storeyed
pavilion formed by intermingling a series of vaults and domes to form a
striking geometric pattern.
Natural beauty
Apart from architectural marvels, Hampi is rich in natural beauty.
It is marked by hillocks and the terrain is covered by huge grey-brown
boulder like rocks. The most surprising aspect is the placement
of these boulders, which look almost surreal as if some giant
hand had lifted them and placed on top of each other at dangerous-looking
angles. But, the strangest part is the rocks have existed in this
shape since time immemorial, a curious quirk of nature, one presumes!
The Pushkarini pool has only been recently excavated but it is worth a visit.
This is classic Indian pool architecture with patterned steps of green chlorite.
Amongst the reasons why Hampi is so well visited, especially by
the foreign traveller, is the fact that not just are the local
people of the area very co-operative, but also because the weather
and natural beauty of the land is captivating. As one interacts
with the people who live in the hamlets around the ruins, one
gets to see Greek, Italian and French delicacies as a part of
their food, although the people preparing the same may have never
tasted the famed Punjabi curry! All thanks to the travellers from
around the world who after days of staying at Hampi, along with
taking back memories of this culture left behind a little of their
own lands.
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How to get there
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By Air
From Bangalore one can take a flight to Bellary, which is 77 kms
from Hospet.
By Rail
Hospet is well connected to Bangalore. It is a nine and a half
train ride from Bangalore.
By Road
The ruins of Hampi are located 13 kms away from the town of Hospet
in East Central Karnataka. The best way to get to Hospet is from
the state capital of Bangalore.
From Hospet one can hire taxis to travel to Hampi.
Hampi is well connected by road from Bangalore as well as other
prominent cities of Karnataka.
Bangalore (353 kms) is linked to most parts of India by air, rail
and road.
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Temperature and best season to go
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In the summer months of late March till early July, the temperature
ranges from 41-37 degree centigrade. The winter months of late
November till mid-March remain pretty warm with the mercury ranging
between 27-24 degree centigrade.
The best season to visit Hampi is from October to March.
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Where to stay
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Some of the recommended places are
Hotel Malligi
10/90, J.N. Road,
Hospet, Karnataka
Pin-583 201
India
Tel: (08394) 428101
Fax: (08394) 427038
Email: malligihome@hotmail.com
Hotel Mayura Vijayanagar,
Thungabadhra Dam
Hospet, Karnataka
India
Tel: (091)-8394-48270.
Hotel Priyadarshani,
Station Road,
Hospet, Karnataka
India
Tel: (091)-8394-48838.
Hotel Mayura Bhuvaneswari,
Kamalapur,
Hospet, Karnataka
India
Tel: (091)-8394-51374.
Karnataka State Tourism Department Corporation Cottages.
Tel: (091)-8394-8108
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